It is called Piazza Umberto I, but on Capri everyone just calls it "the Piazzetta". Two hundred and fifty square metres, four historic cafes, a civic tower, and a baroque cathedral: it is one of the smallest squares in Italy, and probably the most famous in the world. In the 1950s journalist Curzio Malaparte called it "the salon of the world", a nickname that endures today.
The Piazzetta is where Capri gathers: from the fishermen coming up from Marina Grande by Funicular, to newly arrived tourists, from intellectuals to Hollywood stars. Few Mediterranean squares concentrate this same intensity of life, history, and society. This is the guide to understand it properly.
The Piazzetta: From Marketplace to Salon of the World
In the Middle Ages, the Piazzetta was the square in front of the Cathedral of Santo Stefano, the site of the city market and the Sedile di Capri (the island's self-government body). A square of work and administration, not society. So it remained for centuries, until the late 19th century.
The transformation began in the early 20th century, when Capri started to attract writers, artists, and intellectuals fleeing the great European capitals: Norman Douglas, Maxim Gorky, Compton Mackenzie. The Piazzetta became their afternoon meeting point, the place where they discussed literature and politics over coffee.
The 1950s: The Explosion
It was in the postwar era that Capri became the symbol of Mediterranean Dolce Vita. In the 1950s and 60s the Piazzetta hosted at the same time Sophia Loren and Vittorio De Sica, Brigitte Bardot, Aristotle Onassis and Maria Callas, Jackie Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, the Shah of Persia, Federico Fellini, Roberto Rossellini. A concentration of celebrities per square metre without comparison.
It was in those years that Curzio Malaparte, then a resident at the famous Villa Malaparte on Punta Massullo, defined the Piazzetta as "the salon of the world". The phrase spread through the international press and became the formula by which the square is still identified today.
Today the Piazzetta remains the social heart of Capri: the same place where Capresi stop for morning coffee and where tourists sit at sunset to admire the Clock Tower. A hundred years of society history that continues.
The Four Historic Cafes
Four cafes arranged around the Piazzetta have written the island's society history. Each has outdoor tables and a distinct identity.
Since 1909
Bar Tiberio
The oldest of the Piazzetta. Founded in 1909 by the Tiberio family, it has spanned four generations. The tables under the Clock Tower are among the most photographed in the world. Espresso ~4 EUR, lemon granita ~7 EUR.
Since 1920
Gran Caffe (former Vermouth)
Opened in the 1920s as "Bar Vermouth", it remains the most elegant. Majolica floors, white marble counter, 1950s atmosphere. Historic gathering point for postwar international jet set.
Historic
Caso
The intellectuals' cafe, frequented by Norman Douglas and Capri writers in the 1930s. More intimate atmosphere, more local clientele on average.
Compact
Piccolo Bar
The smallest of the Piazzetta. Few tables, fast service. Ideal for a quick coffee before catching the Funicular to Marina Grande.
The Monuments of the Piazzetta
Two monuments define the Piazzetta's profile and have become symbols of Capri worldwide.
The Clock Tower
The ancient civic tower with the majestic 17th-century clock face. Originally the bell tower of the Cathedral; today the iconic symbol of the Piazzetta. The blue and yellow majolica dome makes it recognizable in every Capri photograph.
The Cathedral of Santo Stefano
Built in 1685 in baroque style, with a sober facade and a spectacular interior. The 18th-century majolica floor, the altar in polychrome marbles, and statues of the island's patron Saints. Free entry, open daily from 7 am to 7 pm.
The Cathedral Steps
The baroque steps leading up to the Cathedral are the favourite vantage point of photographers. From here you embrace the entire Piazzetta with cafes on the sides, the Clock Tower, and Mount Solaro of Anacapri in the background.
4 Tips to Experience the Piazzetta
1. Go at aperitivo time (6-8 pm)
The symbolic moment. Golden light on the Clock Tower, the passeggiata of Capresi returning from work, shop windows opening. Crowded cafes but with joyful, not chaotic energy.
2. Espresso at the counter to save
If you do not need to sit and watch the scenography, at the counter an espresso costs 1.50 EUR (standard Italian price). At an outdoor table the same espresso costs 3-5 EUR. The difference pays for the view.
3. Visit the Cathedral
Free entry but almost everyone skips it. The majolica floor and polychrome marble altars are among the most underrated baroque treasures in Campania.
4. Early morning for calm
Before 10 am in high season, the Piazzetta is almost deserted. The light is perfect for photographing the Clock Tower without crowds. Cafes open at 7:30 am.
Did You Know?
The Piazzetta measures only 250 square metres. It is one of the smallest public squares in Italy, yet it has hosted at the same time personalities each individually worth more than entire European capitals. Onassis and Maria Callas, Jackie Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren and Vittorio De Sica all crossed paths here in just a few summers between 1955 and 1965.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is the Piazzetta of Capri called "the salon of the world"?
What are the historic cafes of the Piazzetta?
What is there to see in the Piazzetta of Capri?
How do you get to the Piazzetta of Capri?
What is the best time to visit the Piazzetta?
How much does coffee cost in the Piazzetta?
Written by
Amalfi Coast Travel
Heritage Editor · Island of Capri
